Finding "the Real Favela Experience"

Latest research has shown that 1 in 3 Cariocas live in a favela. It can be argued, therefore, that if you haven't been to a favela during your stay then you can't truly say you have had the full Rio experience. Favela tours are becoming quite popular among visitors to Rio de Janeiro, and several companies have sprung up that offer their services to the city's visitors. When choosing exactly how to go about seeing one of Rio's favelas, it's important to consider carefully the guide. Though an uninvited, unguided venture into a favela is far from advisable, peering out the window of an air-conditioned minibus traveling through the streets as though on safari doesn't exactly provide the honest experience travelers seek. A quality favela tour should be responsible as well as informative, should give back to the community as well as interact with it. This type of tour should provide you with a deepened view of a vibrant, culturally rich and diverse Rio - without exploiting or ogling its residents.


Favela Adventures is run by the charasmatic and compassionate Zezinho - born and raised in Rocinha and arguably one of its most well loved residents. Decorated from head to toe in self-designed tattoos of his beloved favela, he is unforgettable character. His aim is to eradicate the stigmas of the favela, to educate and show guests what a safe, friendly and, above all, enigmatically beautiful community his hometown really is.

Not only is Zezinho the only favela resident operating official tours, he also donates his time and money in local community art projects, including the Julio Otoni project. He is professional, conscientious, and extremely knowledgeable about Rio and Rocinha.

Below former Casa579 staffer Dan shares his experience visiting Rocinha with Favela Adventures.

"Rocinha is the largest of Latin America's many favelas with an ever-swelling population currently estimated at about 300,000. The tour took us a number of places, starting at the samba school hall at the entrance of the favela,we then passed through the markets to grab a snack before heading up to the top of the favela on an exciting moto taxi ride (don't worry, there is also the option of kombi transport for those less confident on the back of motorbikes). From the top of the favela we got views of the city like no other. After photo opportunities, we headed down into the main area of Rocinha to soak in the sights before finding a bar for a drink, there having ample time to ask Zezinho all the questions conjured earlier.

From here, the tour is very flexible. If you would like to meet the friendly locals in bars and shoot some pool, walk more around the town, see the bacos - the intriguing labyrinth of streets that carve routes through the town - or go to the markets you can head to some or all of these places, otherwise, a drink or even a BBQ on the terrace roof of Zezinho, the tour guide´s house, is a great way to relax and see the entirety of the favela.

Clock watching was never an issue (though I'm sure had I other places to be, my time would have been respected) -- if you are enjoying the trip, so is Zezinho. Tours often pleasantly overrun the 3 hour time slot, usually by up to a few hours. We also had the opportunity to go to a Baile Funk Party later in the evening, which stretched into the early hours of the morning and gave us a taste of the modern music scene of the favela. A lot of energy is required for this tour, but rest assured, a BBQ or a big, inexpensive meal at a local restaurant will keep your batteries charged!

The nature of the favela is that it is not controlled by the police, but the ADA - a drug dealing organisation. Although this sounds intimidating, the ADA actually do a lot to keep the peace in Rocinha. There is very minimal crime and I felt very safe and at home when with Zezinho. I did see drug dealers (otherwise known as"The Guys") with guns as well as children from the poorer backgrounds asking for food or money - but this is the nature of the favela. Zezinho explained clearly at the outset the proper favela etiquette; as a result these factors didn't inhibit the great experiences of the trip."

Rio is special because of its people, and if 33% of its people live in favelas, the favela is an important place to know. In experiencing it with a local guide, who encourages interaction with the community, one can truly enrich his or her Rio de Janeiro experience.