Children are welcome in the City of God

(PHOTO: City of God, 2002)

Never thought you´d consider taking your kids to the city made infamous by the 2002 Brazilian cult film City of God? Well now’s the time to think again. A far cry from the city of dust, drugs and death where Rocket, Benny, Lil Dice and Lil Ze grew up, Rio de Janeiro is a friendly, welcoming place where kids are worshiped and treated as though they were little gods.

So when you’re strolling along Copacabana beach, chugging on the train up to the statue of Christ or floating above the city on the cable car to Sugar Loaf mountain and a stranger comes bounding towards you... don’t run! They’re not trying to mug you, they just want to show their adoration for your little one by stroking his arm or tickling her toes and saying things like ‘Que fofinho’ (How cute), ‘Ola princessa’ (Hello princess) or ‘Como vai nene?’ (How’s it going baby?).

(PHOTO: Casa 579 Receptionist and daughter exploring Rio)

The respect and love that Brazilians show for children is reason alone to bring the family to Brazil, as a parent it’s lovely to experience sympathetic smiles and gracious offers of help instead of looks of disdain and silent reproaches when your child cries in public. Coupled with the fact that you don’t have to wait in queues for the Metro or in the bank if you have a child under 2, makes Brazil the perfect destination for a family with young children. And the wealth of beautiful, calm beaches within a few hours bus ride of Rio itself, where you can let the youngsters run riot, eating sand and splashing in the warm waters, whilst you sip on a cold caipirinha and swallow down some tasty prawns, is an absolute bonus.

So don’t let the frightening image of Rio portrayed in the movies or written about in the guidebooks deter you from bringing your tribe to Brazil, a wave of warm smiles and animated hellos await all of you in Rio de Janeiro, the city of kids.

(PHOTO: Preferential and Priority service by law for those over 60, pregnant women, disabled people, and women with babies)

THINGS TO DO WITH KIDS IN AND AROUND RIO

CAPOEIRA: Kids in Brazil start Capoeira as soon as they can walk and yours can give it a go too with professor Falcao (Falcon) at Pequininos Creche e Escola in Laranjeiras (a short kombi van ride from Casa 579). Falcao is fantastic with kids and ensures that everyone gets a go regardless of their experience or level. Classes run on Wednesday and Friday mornings with the youngest ones starting at 1000am.

QUILO (KILO) RESTAURANTS: Travelling with kids can be stressful as they get hungry and irritated and you don’t have anything to feed them. Kilo restaurants (as in pay by the kilo for what you put on your plate) offer food that is healthy, reasonably priced and ready immediately with something to please even the fussiest of eaters. Walk in, each of you piles what you want on your plates, weigh them and you’ve got the whole family fed and watered within minutes.

THE BOTANICAL GARDENS: Wide open spaces, grass, plants, water and the occasional animal, plus a great play area with sand and slides makes this a great day out with children. Kids under 7 are free and the rest of the family pays just $R5 per person leaving money over for an ice cream outside the playground.

THE BONDE: Santa Teresa’s famous train is a winner with kids. It’s bumpy, stop-start motion makes it more like a theme park ride than a serious mode of transport. Not to mention the amazing views and the thrill of going over the famous Lapa arches, making it fun for all the family.

(PHOTO: Casa 579 guest Lydia enjoying Acai)

ACAI: To try Acai (an incredibly yummy, protein packed Brazilian slush puppy-like snack) take your kids to Cultivate Brasil just down the road from Casa 579 in Largo dos Guimaraes, the centre of Santa Teresa. Kids can make all the mess they want with this sweet, black slush and the staff will happily clean up after them. They also have a high chair for babies.

BUZIOS: A 2 hour and 40 minute bus ride north of Rio with 23 beaches at your disposal. Try Turtle beach (Praia Tartaruga) if you’ve got little ones. Its tranquil, clear and tepid waters make it a stress free beach day. Food and drinks are sold on the beach so you don’t have to worry about packing a picnic.

PARATY: A half day boat trip in calm waters won’t upset small stomachs and a couple of stops at pristine beaches will give the bucket and spade a good workout. As Paraty is four and a half hours south of Rio a side trip here can be combined with a visit to Ilha Grande.

ILHA GRANDE: On Ilha Grande get the baby carrier out and hike to Lopez Mendez. Although the waves can often be big they break quite a way off shore and the beach’s abundant shade, luke-warm water and friendly surf instructors make it worth the walk. Kids can start surf lessons from 4 years old (on the shore not in the water) for just R$20 per hour.

Eating & Drinking in Rio

We get a lot of questions at Casa 579 about where to eat good or cheap (or good and cheap) in Rio de Janeiro, so we’ve decided to begin what will be a regular series of posts in answer to just that question.

Brazil’s rich cultural mix over the centuries means that it’s been influenced by the cooking styles and flavours of Africa, Japan, Germany, Portugal, the Middle East and beyond, and though Rio doesn’t have its own distinctive cuisine it picks some of the best from around the country and serves them up via its many bars, restaurants and street and beach vendors across the city. We’re going to pick some of our favourite places and bites and share them with you here - first up some of our favourite spots for coffee and cake.

Cafecito Bar & Cafe

Just down the road from the pousada in Largo Guimaraes (the centre of Santa Teresa) Cafecito has a great covered terrace and is a good spot for watching people stroll by on a weekend afternoon. They serve up hefty portions of cake, especially good are the chocolate options served with vanilla ice cream, and decent coffee. They also have a good selection of interesting ciabatta sandwiches with meats and cheeses, and a nice range of drinks, including beers and some pretty good caipis. The atmosphere is laidback but lively with an international waiting staff and clientele. The decor too is interesting with wooden tables, artwork from the next door shop and plenty of greenery. With free Wi-Fi as well it’s one of our all round favourites for wiling away a few hours, both with friends or solo.

Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno, 121. www.elcafecitocafeebar.blogspot.com

Moviola Livraria

The winning combination of good coffee and good books puts this bistro-cum-book shop high on our list. Located down the hill from the pousada in Larenjeiras, an authentic Rio neighbourhood less visited by tourists, it’s a good option if you feel like browsing an eclectic selection of book, DVDs, music and magazines. Nicely laid out and well-lit with wooden floors and free Wi-Fi it’s an excellent place to hang-out of an afternoon. The bistro serves gourmet sandwiches, soups, salads, beers and wines and some seriously good desserts.

Rua das Laranjeiras 280, Lojas B e C. www.moviolalivraria.com.br

Cafeina

Cafeina is the place to go if you’re in need of a high quality sugar hit, and with five or six branches dotted around Zona Sul, you’ll luckily never be too far away from one. The branch in Ipanema is handily located just a few blocks from the beach and the main square (General Osorio). It’s on a busy street with outdoor seating and is great for watching the bikini and speedo clad world go by. More importantly, the cakes, coffees, breakfasts, snacks and sandwiches are all top-notch. We recommend you get up from your table and go and have a look in the glass-fronted cake cabinet – guaranteed you won’t come back empty handed. The Petit Gateaux deserves a special mention – a perfectly cooked chocolate sponge, with an oozing warm chocolate filling served with ice cream - but then you can’t really go wrong here.

Rua Farme de Amoedo, 43 (Ipanema branch). Check this link for details for other branches: www.cafeina.biz/paginas_conteudo/nossas_lojas.aspx