07 May, 2011

Eating & Drinking in Rio

We get a lot of questions at Casa 579 about where to eat good or cheap (or good and cheap) in Rio de Janeiro, so we’ve decided to begin what will be a regular series of posts in answer to just that question.

Brazil’s rich cultural mix over the centuries means that it’s been influenced by the cooking styles and flavours of Africa, Japan, Germany, Portugal, the Middle East and beyond, and though Rio doesn’t have its own distinctive cuisine it picks some of the best from around the country and serves them up via its many bars, restaurants and street and beach vendors across the city. We’re going to pick some of our favourite places and bites and share them with you here - first up some of our favourite spots for coffee and cake.

Cafecito Bar & Cafe

Just down the road from the pousada in Largo Guimaraes (the centre of Santa Teresa) Cafecito has a great covered terrace and is a good spot for watching people stroll by on a weekend afternoon. They serve up hefty portions of cake, especially good are the chocolate options served with vanilla ice cream, and decent coffee. They also have a good selection of interesting ciabatta sandwiches with meats and cheeses, and a nice range of drinks, including beers and some pretty good caipis. The atmosphere is laidback but lively with an international waiting staff and clientele. The decor too is interesting with wooden tables, artwork from the next door shop and plenty of greenery. With free Wi-Fi as well it’s one of our all round favourites for wiling away a few hours, both with friends or solo.

Rua Paschoal Carlos Magno, 121. www.elcafecitocafeebar.blogspot.com

Moviola Livraria

The winning combination of good coffee and good books puts this bistro-cum-book shop high on our list. Located down the hill from the pousada in Larenjeiras, an authentic Rio neighbourhood less visited by tourists, it’s a good option if you feel like browsing an eclectic selection of book, DVDs, music and magazines. Nicely laid out and well-lit with wooden floors and free Wi-Fi it’s an excellent place to hang-out of an afternoon. The bistro serves gourmet sandwiches, soups, salads, beers and wines and some seriously good desserts.

Rua das Laranjeiras 280, Lojas B e C. www.moviolalivraria.com.br

Cafeina

Cafeina is the place to go if you’re in need of a high quality sugar hit, and with five or six branches dotted around Zona Sul, you’ll luckily never be too far away from one. The branch in Ipanema is handily located just a few blocks from the beach and the main square (General Osorio). It’s on a busy street with outdoor seating and is great for watching the bikini and speedo clad world go by. More importantly, the cakes, coffees, breakfasts, snacks and sandwiches are all top-notch. We recommend you get up from your table and go and have a look in the glass-fronted cake cabinet – guaranteed you won’t come back empty handed. The Petit Gateaux deserves a special mention – a perfectly cooked chocolate sponge, with an oozing warm chocolate filling served with ice cream - but then you can’t really go wrong here.

Rua Farme de Amoedo, 43 (Ipanema branch). Check this link for details for other branches: www.cafeina.biz/paginas_conteudo/nossas_lojas.aspx

04 March, 2011

Dancing in the Street: Carnival Blocos


With names like, "Ta Cheio de Maluco Ai (Full of crazies there)" and "Me Beija que sou cineasta (Kiss me because I am a Filmmaker)" the Rio Carnival Blocos are street parties like none other in the world. The first documented Bloco in Rio was in the late 19th century when neighborhood musicians banded together playing instruments and singing songs in the street as an alternative to the more formal carnival parades which they found dull and expensive. Modern day Blocos maintain the same spirit of spontaneity and community. Musicians and revellers, often from the same neighborhood, join together singing musical anthems and dancing the street with an open invitation for all to join. This year hundreds of Blocos both small and large are parading day and night all throughout Rio.


Here is a clip from Bloco de Preta in Impanema:




The team at Casa 579 has listed some of the most popular and most recommended upcoming Blocos below:



4 March- Friday
  • Bloco Carmelitas- located in Santa Teresa
  • Concentra mas não Sai- located in Laranjeiras
5 March- Saturday
  • Bloco Ceu na Terra- located in Santa Teresa
  • Cordao da Bola Preta - located in Centro
  • Carioca da Gema- located in Lapa
  • Aconteceu- located in Santa Teresa
  • Barbas- located in Botofongo
  • Empolga as 9- located in Copacabana
  • Dois pra La Dois pra Ca- located in Botofongo
  • Banda de Impanema-located in Impanema

6 March- Sunday
  • Cordao do Boitata- located in Centro
  • Bangalaflumenga- located in Jardim Botanico
  • Simpatia e Quase Amor-located in Impanema
  • Que Merda e Essa- located in Impanema

7 March- Monday
  • Volta Alice- located in Laranjeiras
  • Aconteceu- located in Santa Teresa
  • Afroreggae- located in Impanema
8 March-Tuesday
  • Bloco Carmelitas- located in Santa Teresa
  • Rio Maracatu- located in Impanema
  • Afoxé Filhos de Ghandi
  • - located in Copacabana
  • banda da Ipanema- located in Impanema
12 March- Saturday
  • Banda da Ipanema- located in Impanema
13 March- Sunday
  • Monobloco- located in Centro

09 January, 2011

Sambadrome is now open for Carnival 2011!

New Years Eve has come and gone. Which means it’s time now for Cariocas to start to seriously prepare for the biggest celebration of the year: Carnival. Of course, Carnival preparations are a year-round activity here in Rio. Almost as soon as one year’s celebration comes to a close, the city begins gearing up for the following year’s merriment. Now, less than two months away from the main event of 2011, we have entered into the final stages of readying: technical rehearsals. These rehearsals (called ‘ensaios’ in Portuguese) offer a unique preview of the full-on show (including costumes, full bateria, theme song, and more), and are held in the headquarters of Rio’s Carnival: the Sambadrome.


Sambadrome, ready and waiting for visiters

Each school is scheduled for two ensaios over the two months leading up to Carnival- which will be held this year from March 1-7th. Best of all, these events are free to attend! From here on out each weekend through the end of February will feature ensaios of two or three area samba schools each evening. Tonight, we kick off the series with the schools of Rocinha, Sao Clemente, and Salgueiro. Performances commence at 7 or 8pm, and wrap up around midnight. (See the schedule below for more details on times and dates.) As the shows are free to attend, it is a advisable to arrive early to find a space to enjoy the entertainment. If you come through Rio in the next two months, but won’t be able to stay for Carnival, definitely make your way to the Sambadrome to revel in the pre-Carnival glory of the ensaio!


Picture from the inaguration of Sambadrome, 1984



ENSIAO SCHEDULE-

January

09/01 (Sunday)
Rocinha (19h)
São Clemente (20h)
Salgueiro (22h)

15/01 (Saturday)
Alegria da Zona Sul (19h)
Viradouro (20h)
Imperatriz (22h)

16/01 (Sunday)
Cubango (19h)
Mocidade (20h)
Unidos da Tijuca (22h)

22/01 (Saturday)
Pilares (20h)
União da Ilha (22h)

23/01 (Sunday)
Renascer (19h)
Grande Rio (20h)
Mangueira (22h)

29/01 (Saturday)
Porto da Pedra (20h)
Portela (22h)
30/01 (Sunday)
Santa Cruz (19h)
Beija-Flor (20h)
Vila Isabel (22h)


February

06/02- (Sunday)
Império Serrano (19h)
Império da Tijuca (20h)
Salgueiro (22h)

12/02- (Saturday)
São Clemente (20h)
União da Ilha (22h)

13/02- (Sunday)
Estácio (19h)
Mocidade (20h)
Mangueira (21h)

19/02- (Saturday)
Porto da Pedra (19h);
Portela (22h)

20/02- (Sunday)
Inocentes (19h)
Vila Isabel (20h)
Grande Rio (22h)

26/02- (Saturday)
Imperatriz (20h)
Beija-Flor (22h)

27/02- (Sunday)
Unidos da Tijuca (22h)

26 December, 2010

Saying goodbye to 2010 in Rio de Janeiro

In Rio de Janeiro, the New Years Eve celebrations are grandiose. Let’s take a look at the who, what, where, and hows of this major party, second in Brazil only to Carnival.


The party: The main center of action is the beaches of Copacabana, where over two million people congregate to ring in the New Year. It's officially the largest NYE party in the world! This year's party theme is "The Golden Decade," in recognition of the international events which will be hosted in Brazil in the coming years. Entertainment begins around 8pm, with a variety of musical genres. Whether you desire traditional samba or DJs spinning beats, you will find it at one of the four stages lining Copacabana. At midnight partygoers will experience a short blackout, followed by intense illumination; fireworks will splash the skies over the ocean, the colourful show will last for twenty minutes.

Preparation and tradition: Dressing in white is a New Year’s tradition across Brazil, a practiced rooted in Afro-Brazilian religion. Wear comfortable shoes, keeping in mind you will most likely be on your feet most of the night, and there may be broken glass on the streets following the celebrations. Bringing a bottle of champagne is also appropriate. Often the bottle is shaken and sprayed over the heads of fellow partiers. Do not be disgruntled if you end up wet and messy as a result of this New Year’s ritual, this is an auspicious blessing. On that theme, another traditional practice of the Brazilian Reveillion (New Year’s Eve) is offering gifts to the goddess of the sea, Iemanja. You may see little boats decked with presents or flowers being floated into the ocean, all offerings to the deity. Devotees of Candomble, Umbanda, and other Afro-Brazilian religions refer to the entire event as Festa de Iemanja- Iemanja’s Party, and begin preparations days before. Priestesses lead ceremonies and offer consultations on the sands of the beach, and groups surround alters laden with candles and cachaca while drums beat out rhythms appeasing to the gods.

Transportation: The best way to get to and from the festivities is the metro. Tickets are available for purchase at selected metro stations (Largo do Machado and Carioca are the most convenient to Casa 579). Get your tickets in advance. After midnight, linger on the beach or head to a nearby club and continue your celebrations for awhile, allowing the traffic to calm before heading back to bed and breakfast.